On the same week in which I re-read Terzani a.k.a. my Asian-travel-cultural-supersitions-bible, focusing on Indochina now, I was pleasantly surprised to catch (only halfway so far) a charming Thai/Laos movie called “Good morning, Luang Prabang” on TV.
My interest about this part of Asia went into overdrive – much to the annoyance of my poor husband who has had to listened to names like Laos, Cambodia, Burma, Angkor Wat, Luang Prabang all this week.
As well as what he knew is coming every time I started talking about places – “LET’S MAKE A TRIP THERE!!”.
But their bloody history is always what puts a stop to any real plans, or as he simply puts it, “Why do you want to go to places which have seen so much death?”.
Laos was reportedly bombed with more explosives during the Vietnam War than Germany and the whole of occupied Europe during World War 2 – can you imagine how much devastations that caused? The generations of people still affected with deformity caused by the chemicals released during the wars and their general hardship - how can I see them and enjoy my trip?
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Maybe I can arrange an itinerary that focuses on their natural and historical sites; majestic temples, fascinating culture and tradition and scenic landscape and waterfalls – and avoid places like the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum (why anyone would want to visit this place is beyond me…)
But there is still one thing that stops me.
I would loath to be one of those tourists coming in droves, descending on heritage sites with no capacity to cope with mass visitors, photographing like there is no tomorrow, disrupting daily lives and sacred rituals of the locals, turning them into spectacles for our entertainment – effectively, taking away their charm and all their mysteries.
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What a dilemma.
I dream of touching the ancient ruins and experiencing the atmosphere of lives untouched by progress.
But I will resigned myself to reading accounts of these places from visitors who have had the chances of seeing these places before they became tourist spots.
And console myself that I am doing my tiny part in preserving heritage sites like the Plain of Jars and Luang Prabang.






